 |
 |
 |
 |
New York |
 |
|
|
|
|
New York |
|
Over the Rainbow Bridge at Niagara Falls, and back in America for the final
push to the coast! More tomorrow. Have a great night everyone!
-Darren
Not many drivers waving to me on the road today, construction crews
ignoring my "hello" as I ride by, general rudeness.....Welcome to
New York!!!
No, I exaggerate a bit....But I could certainly tell I'm not in the pleasant
plains of South Dakota or the welcoming wasteland of Wyoming. Ah, New
York....the final frontier...sort of; for I will most likely cross into
Massachusetts & Connecticut before I finish. Today, I'm guessing I did
about 60 hard miles; hard because my clip on my left cycling shoe broke again,
and I was forced to ride in sandals, not the best footwear for a long haul. My
attempts to fix the shoes failed horribly, so I might be doin' the sandal
thing till the trip's end. I had quite a detour to begin the day, meandering
my way around Buffalo at the suggestion of one in particular (thanx O.g. Nate
Dog) to avoid this "armpit of New York." Sorry for offending anyone
happens to be from there. So around Buffalo and their cursed football team I
cycled, finding my way to Route 20, a transamerican road that runs west to
east through the state. I passed such towns as Darien, Batavia, Darien Lakes,
Alabama, Curfo, Avon, and my present locale at East Avon. Tomorrow, I head to
the Finger Lakes region of New York, where I shall delight in these world
wonders of water before continuing on to the Cooperstown area the following
day.
So who will be in Montauk on the 27th?
Come join the Bates family for an evening of bicycling bliss! Spaces are
filling up rapidly, so Reponde Si Vous Plais immediadement! Excuse my delirium
this evening, and I wish you all a great night!
-Darren
p.s. Thanx Elena for the e-greeting, and that Sanchez for translating it for
me.
p.p.s. Thanx Linda & Allan for treating me so kindly and giving me a place
to stay in St. Catherine's, and for some wonderful meals! (especially the 1/2
of cow cooked all for me)
p.p.s. Some new photos are online at biking4books.com, and to answer someone's
question from a while back, old non-biking related photos can be found at http://home.earthlink.net/~philbates
Auburn , August 18
I arrived in Auburn, NY at about 6:30 this evening, following a 70 mile ride
from East Avon. I wandered around the town for a good hour, trying to find a
place to camp. I had been feeling bad that I had been unable to find any
campsites the last few days, so I was determined to get one in Auburn. But no
luck; the nearest one was 10 miles away and to the west (the coast being to
the east). So I settled for the cheapest motel I could find, and boy is it a
shithole! But a friendly shithole at that, and I settled down at the
downstairs bar/restaurant, where I met the locals and chatted with someone who
has one of the worst jobs I've ever heard of.
This guy and his friend, both from W. Virginia, were hired to
come to New York and clear the area immediately surrounding a gas pipeline
that runs vertically through New York and into Canada. With two tractors among
them they must keep the pipeline free of tree growth, garbage, etc. How long
is the pipeline you ask? 400 miles!!!! Through knee deep swampland in this
area! And god knows what else elsewhere.
Then he tells me of the crisis that this area is facing with Mosquitoes
and the West Nile virus. Turns out, 7 species of mosquitoes are infected with
some wacky killer virus that is whacking birds, livestock, and cyclists. Time
to get the fuck out this area, eh? And poor pipeline cleaner-uppers, huh? To
be out in those mosquito infested swamps for months on end....that's plain
awful.
Anyhow, I hope to be out of the hotzone soon enough. Today I made
some good progress through the state, winding through the villages of Geneva,
Canandaigua, and Seneca Falls, the latter the site of the Seneca Falls Women's
Convention many years ago that attempted to revoke some of man's god given
rights to rule over all the world's subjects......
Just Kidding! No need for hate emails of viruses to be sent my way!
Anyhow, so it was a good day, although I wish I never heard about the
West Nile virus, for it will haunt me while riding. You know that feeling when
you've seen tons of ants crawling around and then you think that you can feel
them on you? Well, I'm sure I'll be swatting nothing but the air tomorrow in
fear of those filthy mosquitoes and their dreaded disease. West Virginian
Tractor Man said that he coats himself with gasoline to repel them (no joke).
I'm sure that's a healthy remedy, so maybe I'll give that a try. Anyhow, sleep
tight everyone and have a lovely mosquito-free evening. Adios!
-Darren
p.s. Where's Cuba, Dustin, and Renee to drain some rhesus monkey and make me
an antidote from the blood plasma so I don't have to worry about the killer
virus?
p.p.s Lost? See "Outbreak" (1995 or so)
Cazenovia , August 19
Oh Rolling Hills, how I loathe thee!
Mountains are fine. Of course, it's a bit strenuous to climb for hours on end
on a bike, but the reward of a 5 or even 10 mile descent is....very rewarding.
Rolling hills? They stink!
Today was a 40 mile haul that felt like 140. I imagine this is what you have
been going through lately, TransAmer's. Up and down and up and down....but
mostly up, and steep ups. The steepest grades I've encountered on the trip so
far. Thankfully Route 20 through NY is a marvelous road with wide & well
paved shoulders, so I didn't have to look in the rearview mirror much while
sweating buckets on the climbs.
I gave a fond farewell to the finger lakes as I passed Lake
Skaneateles and the appropriately named town of Skaneateles. Then it was on to
La Fayette, and then up some gruesome hills to the present stop at Cazenovia,
but not before having to deal with a flat and some rather ballsy dogs who
would foolishly risk their lives to cross the highway and try their best to
bite me in the ass. I felt it necessary to finally read the instructions on my
DogBeGone chemical repellant, just in case. Fortunately, I didn't have to
spray the beasts, but a few really pushed their luck. Unfortunately, none of 'em
got run over, thereby sparing the next cyclist the fear of some crazed mutts
emerging from the cornfields in a feeding frenzy....
Delicious apple pie can be found all over these parts in the
summer, which was great as a midday snack when the hills were getting
especially bad. Fortunately, the weather has been unusually cool here
recently, which meant temps in the mid 60's, so at least it wasn't another
Black Hills of South Dakota scene (by the way, there is one picture that was
recently posted on biking4books.com that is of that particular climb in SD)
As far tomorrow, I really don't no what the destination will be. It
would be great if I could get to Cooperstown, some 70 miles from here. But I
was expecting to do about 80 today; ignorant of the terrain that lay ahead. So
I'll play it my ear and see what happens.
The phone is on tonight, but if you'd like to call, and it's
before 11pm EST, then call (315) 655-9101 ext.114 If its after 11pm est,
then (818) 261-2101. Nighty Night!
-Darren
Cooperstown, August 20
Good evening everyone! After a 70 mile ride through the foothills of the
Catskills, taking me by the scenic towns of Madison, Sangerfield, Richfield
Springs, Bridgewater, etc., I arrived at the shrine of all baseball fans,
Cooperstown. Before arriving here, I spent the day dodging the thousands of
antique hunters who bear down on these small villages of Route 20 yearly in
their quest for ultimate bargains and prized knick knacks. Mom, you'd love it!
Anyhow, I arrived here by 5:30, after departing Route 20 for a 14 mile
detour that led me to Cooperstown. Fortunately, the 14 miles was rather flat
as compared to the rest of the day, sticking close to the shores of lake
Otsego and a few other minor lakes in the area. I quickly became frustrated
upon my arrival, for my chit chat with the Chamber of Commerce lady ended with
the knowledge that the cheapest room in town was $100 bucks and the cheapest
campground had the balls to charge 30 bucks to pitch a tent, and it was 5
miles away...and uphill! So I opted for the stealth camping, which works like
this. I went to the police station and tried to come off as particularly
pathetic to the cop on duty. Luckily, she was a outdoorsey person herself who
had hiked the Appalacian Trail a while back. She undoubtedly felt sorry for
this poor chap and directed me to a local park, where upon arriving I spoke
with the caretaker/lifeguard who pointed me in the right direction to a level
spo!
t to spend the night.. So Problem solved! And it is 9pm right now, and the
town is closing down and I'm being kicked out of the coffee shop...more about
the Hall of Fame and the town tomorrow. Good night and phone is on!
-Darren
Duanesburg, August 21
Firstly, I'd like to wish John Gill a speedy recovery. Please give him my
regards TransAmer's, and I wish you 5 all the best on your remaining 2 weeks
to the coast.
Because I arrived in Cooperstown rather late last night, my admissions ticket
to the Hall O' Fame was good for today as well. So after a sleepless night at
the park on the shores of Otsego Lake, where some catlike beast was screaming
like mad WAY close to my tent at midnight, prompting me to unsheathe my
Leatherman just in case, I returned to the hallowed sanctuary of baseball. I
strolled through the history of baseball exhibit, guiding me through the
sport's humble beginnings in the 19th century through the genius of New Yorker
Abner Doubleday. I marveled at the baseball card collections, including the
mother of all cards, the Honus Wagner prize. The section devoted to stadium
design and uniform and equipment modernization was spectacular, as was the
hall devoted to the display of individual bronze plaques celebrating each
inductee to the Hall.
Although, none of the athletes showcased at the Baseball
Hall of Fame could hold a candle to the sports gods that were paid tribute at
the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame that I had the privilege of witnessing in
Wisconsin. Don't let their gross obesity, missing front teeth, and affinity
for cheap beer fool you. Let's see Ted Williams, Joe D, or Mordecai Three
Fingered Brown catch a 6 pound Walleye on 2 pound test while trolling in
brackish water with a high PH content! That being said, I would recommend that
everyone skip Cooperstown and visit the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame.
Anyhow, Today was a 60 mile or so ride up and over and up and over hills,
through the towns of Springfield (there's a Springfield in every state it
seems), Sloansville, Esperance, etc. Tonight I camp in Duanesburg at the local
skydiving establishment. Tomorrow it's off to Albany, and then south as I
follow the Hudson River in hope that the Hudson River Valley is indeed a
valley which would provide me some relief from the hills. Have a great night
everyone!
-Darren
phone is on...8182612101
Hudson, August 22
Yo! Many thanks to Eric at the New York State Department of Transportation for
making me realize what a gutless pansy I was being for trying to avoid riding
through the city. Bridgeport, Connecticut? Denying myself the opportunity to
finish the trip full circle by touring my ancestral roots in the big city?
Screw that! Bring it on Harlem. Show me what you got Bronx! Well, I won't
completely go off the deep end, so I'll choose Harlem over Bronx. Sorry, dad.
So, NYSDOT has implemented some fantastic bike routes through the
state. One of them leads from Buffalo to Albany, which I naively avoided in
favor of the hilly route. Pish Posh, all in the past, right? (I had to use
that phrase once Ilan, right?!). However, now I have learned of Bike Route 9,
which follows Route 9 along the Hudson River from Albany, down through
Poughkeepsie, around Newburgh, past West Point, past Havestraw in Rockland
County (another reason to do this route, for as many of you know our family
owned a large farm in Havestraw which I'd love to bike through. Could one of
you tell me exactly which road it is on? Thanks!), and then things get Really interesting! Over the George Washington Bridge onto the Island, through Harlem
and then down the eastern shores of the Hudson, across Manhattan to the
Brooklyn Bridge, across the Bridge to Brooklyn, meandering over to the bike
path on Ocean Parkway, and ultimately to Fire Island National Seashore, most likely
concluding at Robert Moses State Park or the vicinity....Feedback? I mean, I figure
after Transcanadienne Route 17, there is NOTHING that can phase me! And as far
as traffic volume goes, I plan on doing congested areas like Harlem in the
middle of the night, maybe 3 or 4 in the morning, so I can have the roads to
myself. Just kidding everyone, I'll be safe, I promise.
So this new route is now right in some of y'alls backyards. Eve, get off your
lazy ass and ride through Manhattan with me! Nate Dog, it's perfect training
for our Death Valley to Mt. Whitney fiasco. Uncle Marv and Aunt Julie and all
the rest of the Weinsteins? Time to hit the road!
Anyhow, tonight I write to all y'alls from St. Charles Restaurant
in Hudson, NY which is fittingly on the Hudson River. It was an absolutely
beautiful ride today; one of the most visually memorable of the trip. Only
about 55 miles, but the last 35 were on Route 9J on the east bank of the
Hudson. This is some of the oldest settled land in America. Henry Hudson
landed on Route 9J land and was greeted by the kindly Kinderhook Indian Tribe
in 1606. Several of the local cemeteries I passed today had headstones dating
back to the mid 18th century. The homes along the route were amazing; colonial
mansions with incredible views of the Hudson River Valley. Lush forests with
the occasional frolicking deer and cool temperatures with minimal hills made
things all the more pleasurable. Tomorrow I expect more of the same. Anyhow,
I'm staying in a motel tonight, so anyone can and should call me at (518)
828-9477. Room 28, I might add. I am so excited to see you, East Coasters! The
countdown has begun. Only 5 days to go!!! Shalom to all!
-Darren
p.s. Full coverage on the policy, Gary!
Hyde Park, August 23
Down to 4 "Survivor" Contestants! Can you believe it?!! Actually, I
was referring to 4 days left on my ride. I am reminded just how long I've been
on the road when I realize that when I started this trip, those silly
survivors hadn't even started their back-stabbing sea-faring shenanigans.
Anyhow, it seems that whenever I write to y'all relaying the
beautiful weather I had that day, the next day it's raining like mad. Today,
it's raining like mad. What a crazy summer weather wise, eh?
I managed to make it as far as Hyde Park, birthplace of FDR and
site of the Vanderbuilt Mansion on the Hudson River. It was pouring the whole
way from the city of Hudson. Now fortunately, Route 9 in this area isn't too
hilly. It's not the uphills that would have scared me, but the downhills
today. I'm using the same set of tires that I started the trip on, and
needless to say, they are nearly treadless and ready for the dumpster. But
with not bike store in sight and only 4 days to go, I'll stick with 'em. But
on downhills slick from rain, treadless, thin tires aren't the best. So I cut
the day short when I saw a couple minor hills I didn't want to hydroplane
down. In Rhinebeck I saw a marker indicating NYC is 104 miles away, so I don't
got much to go, and hopefully, the sun will come out tomorrow. Bet your bottom
dollar that tomorrow (singalong time!)....they'll be sun.
Ok, as you can see I'm at a complete loss of words this evening. But
gimme a call if u wish and we'll chat. (914) 229-7100, Rm. 23. Bonsoir!
-Darren
A Couple Personals to close on:
Thanks for the free ice-cream and apple
turnover, Chris @ Sunset Meadows bakery at the junction of Rt23 & 9!
Heay John Grande, I can't believe you don't even have telephone service no
mores (actually it's no surprise). You're a bigger bum then I am! Call me if
you ever come across a phone again.
Heay Zac, did you ever get the disposable camera I sent you?
Heay Ilan, I added you because I thought you should read the end as it
unfolds, don't ya think? And I reminded Sanchez that it's the quality of
alliterations that count, not the quantity of words one can string together
with the help of a dictionary. What a Reprehensible Rapscallionary Roguelike
Ripoff Artist Resorting to Roget, Woefully Worthless Weasel Working With
Webster, & Obvious Opener of Oxford.
Just kidding Sanchez, good job!
Haverstraw, August 24
Greetings from Rockland Motel on Route 202. For many of you, including myself,
this area has special meaning, and it's nice to be back in familiar spots,
even though so much has changed on the farm. There's an
enormous condominium complex on the other side of Route 202, and intense
construction is underway everywhere. I'm told Haverstraw has become a real
trendy spot for rich city folk to build their country houses.
Anyhow, after putting in some good miles today from Hyde Park to
Haverstraw, I am now no more than 30 miles from Manhattan. The finale at
Robert Moses State Park might take place on Saturday now, unless eastern New
Jersey in all its scenic splendor require me to take a Saturday rest day to
soak it all in! We shall see, I guess. Anyhow, good night everyone and I hope
to hear from you all soon.
love, Darren
Fort Lee, New Jersey, August 25
1 more day!
I write to y'all from Fort Lee, NJ on the west side of the Hudson River.
Tomorrow, halfway across the George Washington Bridge, I will be in New York
again. South through Manhattan to Battery Park, o'er the Brooklyn Bridge, into
Brooklyn, then Queens, then Nassau County and onto Fire Island for the
conclusion at Robert Moses S.P. I'm guessing it's about 50 miles from here, so
I'll get a real early start tomorrow to beat the city traffic going to the
beaches on Long Island.
It's unbelievable to me how fast this trip has flown by. Seems
like yesterday when I was on the long Greyhound bus ride to Oregon; uncertain
of what the trip had in store for me and in awe of how far away the Atlantic
seemed from the tiny seaside community of Florence, Oregon (pop. 5,000)....
Tomorrow I will be sending out voicemails to those on this mailing list
approx. every hour while I'll ride, so you can get a sense of my last day on
the road as it unfolds. The phone will be on all day and all night tomorrow as
well. I expect that I will arrive at the beach at noon or so. You should all
feel free to call me anytime tomorrow to join in on the beach party or my ride
through NYC. Have a great night everyone!
-Darren
(818) 261-2101
Special Journal Entry Covering the Last Day of the Trip